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| Preparing to anchor in Anegada, BVI |
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| Fidelity moored near Saba Rock, Virgin Gorda |
After completing our American Sailing Association certifications earlier in the year, we decided one more crewed charter would do us well to gain some more experience before venturing out on our own on a bareboat charter (chartering a yacht alone, no crew or captain). After working with our broker, we found "Fedelity", a 46 foot Jeanneau operated by Bob and Debbie Anderson. Bob is also an ASA instructor, so we figured he would probably be willing to allow us to do a lot of hands-on operation and give us lots of great advice. He did on both counts.
After three days spent in our beloved island of St. John, Bob and Debbie picked us up at the National Park dock in Cruz Bay. Given our previous sailing charters, we held fairly high expectations from Bob, Debbie, and Fidelity. It was very clear early in the charter, that our expectations would not only be met, but they would be far surpassed.
Fidelity was in pristine condition and she was our first introduction into a more modern monohull. Our previous monohull experiences were on Morgan Out Island 41's. While these venerable boats made for comfortable conditions and good sailing, they are an older design and much has changed. Fidelity has many of the features I would look for in a yacht to live aboard - huge aft cockpit with a very usable folding table, a "sugar scoop" swim platform at the stern, and a very spacious layout with a nicely comfortable saloon. She was a three cabin, three head layout making her great for chartering. The forward stateroom, which was our accommodation for our week aboard, is the owner's suit complete with en-suite head.
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| Our forward stateroom |
Unlike the shallow draft full keeled Morgans I trained on, Fidelity is a fin keel, lighter displacement boat. At the helm there was a tremendous difference in the responsiveness of the boat. While the Morgans felt like a graceful war horse, Fidelity felt more like a tuned sports car. Helm changes were immediate, pinching in heavy wind was easy and I felt very connected with the 46 feet of boat beneath me. On the other hand, the gear and forces behind them were massive. I was awkward and uncoordinated working the sheets and halyards. It had been six months since I had crewed a boat this size and I really struggled to find a rhythm. On our first morning while putting the final tension on the main halyard, a block at the base of the mast failed. I had read about such a failure, but I can assure you reading about it does no justice to seeing it happen first hand. To be honest, it scared the hell out of me - it also reaffirmed how serious this type of gear and the handling of it really is. Throughout the week, I found myself clumsy at times which really shook my confidence. I compare it to the basketball player that hasn't played in some time. In the player's head, he knows his approximate level of play, and with it comes confidence that it will be achieved. When he gets on the court and a pass comes his way, he throws up an air-ball. He hasn't lost that skill, but that level is not immediately at his grasp and it's a shock. That immediate shock is exactly what I went through. Captain Anderson coached me through this, and I'm glad he was there. During our week aboard, we soaked up a lot of knowledge from him.
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| Sharon at the helm of Fidelity |
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| Preparing to anchor near Little Jost |
One thing we were pleasantly unprepared for, was the spectacular culinary show with which we were treated for each and every meal. When booking a crewed yacht charter, the chef and his or her sample menus are always taken under great consideration. When we booked Fidelity, we knew we would be eating well, but we had no idea that Debbie had grossly understated her abilities and talent in the galley. Nor did we know the lengths that Bob and Debbie go to present meals Al fresco in the cockpit at a level that would make high-end restaurants embarrassed. Seared sushi grade Ahi tuna, mango Mahi-mahi, delectable shrimp, indulgent breakfasts, and amazingly appetizing lunches - a menu designed and organized to our every tasty desire. Debbie spent countless hours in the galley, making each meal an event to remember, and Bob had gathered a wine selection based on our tastes that did not fail to impress.
Our charter with Fidelity found us hitting everything on our itinerary, plus a few unexpected side trips offered up by Bob. Our favorites were all visited - Norman Island, Jost Van Dyke, Virgin Gorda. We also took in a lot of new territory. We snorkeled the "Indians" near Norman Island for the first time this year, a place we have been meaning to go over the years but somehow passed up for other activities. On one particular day, our goal was to sail to Marina Cay. We were excited about our visit - Marina Cay was another spot that has been on our to-do list for many years. Once underway, Bob offered the suggestion of heading over to Cooper island on our way. We took the dinghy from Cooper Island, to Salt Island and the wreck of the RMS Rhone for snorkeling - more places high on our to-do list "someday". The eerie-factor at the Rhone was high, and it was spectacular snorkeling the wreck while divers took a closer look beneath us. Salt Island was great for wandering around and exploring. Towards the west end of the island lies a makeshift graveyard where islanders buried the dead that washed ashore from the Rhone's demise.
The incredibly flat island of Anegada, due north of Virgin Gorda, was also on the itinerary we asked of Bob.
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| Sunset in Anegada |
The sail there and back was well worth it, and proved to be a very relaxing experience with the sails set and the autopilot steering our course. We arrived far earlier than Sharon and I had imagined we would, which allowed for us to do a good amount of island exploration and visiting many of the local watering holes. It was immediately apparent that we would want to return there in the future, so we moved around the island like a sampler platter of appetizers with the intent that we will know exactly what we want to see and do the next time our hull meanders into this beautiful anchorage. And when you hear Jimmy Buffett talk about Anegada lobster - take his word for it... Or ours. This is something not to be missed.
Our week aboard with Bob and Debbie was a great way to end our crewed charter experiences. It was horrendously depressing to see it come to an end, but with every end comes a new beginning. This was such a great stepping stone towards our ultimate goal, allowing us to log more hours under a professional while still having a vacation of a lifetime.
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| Motoring to pull up the anchor |
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| "Crowded" Cow-wreck beach, Anegada |
