Showing posts with label Caribbean. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Caribbean. Show all posts

Sunday, December 22, 2013

BVI Sailing Charter 2013

Preparing to anchor in Anegada, BVI


Fidelity moored near Saba Rock, Virgin Gorda
After completing our American Sailing Association certifications earlier in the year, we decided one more crewed charter would do us well to gain some more experience before venturing out on our own on a bareboat charter (chartering a yacht alone, no crew or captain).  After working with our broker, we found "Fedelity", a 46 foot Jeanneau operated by Bob and Debbie Anderson.  Bob is also an ASA instructor, so we figured he would probably be willing to allow us to do a lot of hands-on operation and give us lots of great advice.  He did on both counts.

After three days spent in our beloved island of St. John, Bob and Debbie picked us up at the National Park dock in Cruz Bay.  Given our previous sailing charters, we held fairly high expectations from Bob, Debbie, and Fidelity.  It was very clear early in the charter, that our expectations would not only be met, but they would be far surpassed.

Fidelity was in pristine condition and she was our first introduction into a more modern monohull.  Our previous monohull experiences were on Morgan Out Island 41's.  While these venerable boats made for comfortable conditions and good sailing, they are an older design and much has changed.  Fidelity has many of the features I would look for in a yacht to live aboard - huge aft cockpit with a very usable folding table, a "sugar scoop" swim platform at the stern, and a very spacious layout with a nicely comfortable saloon.  She was a three cabin, three head layout making her great for chartering.  The forward stateroom, which was our accommodation for our week aboard, is the owner's suit complete with en-suite head.
Our forward stateroom

Unlike the shallow draft full keeled Morgans I trained on, Fidelity is a fin keel, lighter displacement boat.  At the helm there was a tremendous difference in the responsiveness of the boat.  While the Morgans felt like a graceful war horse, Fidelity felt more like a tuned sports car.  Helm changes were immediate, pinching in heavy wind was easy and I felt very connected with the 46 feet of boat beneath me.  On the other hand, the gear and forces behind them were massive.  I was awkward and uncoordinated working the sheets and halyards.  It had been six months since I had crewed a boat this size and I really struggled to find a rhythm.  On our first morning while putting the final tension on the main halyard, a block at the base of the mast failed.  I had read about such a failure, but I can assure you reading about it does no justice to seeing it happen first hand.  To be honest, it scared the hell out of me - it also reaffirmed how serious this type of gear and the handling of it really is.  Throughout the week, I found myself clumsy at times which really shook my confidence.  I compare it to the basketball player that hasn't played in some time.  In the player's head, he knows his approximate level of play, and with it comes confidence that it will be achieved.  When he gets on the court and a pass comes his way, he throws up an air-ball.  He hasn't lost that skill, but that level is not immediately at his grasp and it's a shock.  That immediate shock is exactly what I went through.  Captain Anderson coached me through this, and I'm glad he was there.  During our week aboard, we soaked up a lot of knowledge from him.


Sharon at the helm of Fidelity
Preparing to anchor near Little Jost


One thing we were pleasantly unprepared for, was the spectacular culinary show with which we were treated for each and every meal.  When booking a crewed yacht charter, the chef and his or her sample menus are always taken under great consideration.  When we booked Fidelity, we knew we would be eating well, but we had no idea that Debbie had grossly understated her abilities and talent in the galley.  Nor did we know the lengths that Bob and Debbie go to present meals Al fresco in the cockpit at a level that would make high-end restaurants embarrassed.  Seared sushi grade Ahi tuna, mango Mahi-mahi, delectable shrimp, indulgent breakfasts, and amazingly appetizing lunches - a menu designed and organized to our every tasty desire.  Debbie spent countless hours in the galley, making each meal an event to remember, and Bob had gathered a wine selection based on our tastes that did not fail to impress.  











Our charter with Fidelity found us hitting everything on our itinerary, plus a few unexpected side trips offered up by Bob.  Our favorites were all visited - Norman Island, Jost Van Dyke, Virgin Gorda.  We also took in a lot of new territory.  We snorkeled the "Indians" near Norman Island for the first time this year, a place we have been meaning to go over the years but somehow passed up for other activities.  On one particular day, our goal was to sail to Marina Cay.  We were excited about our visit - Marina Cay was another spot that has been on our to-do list for many years.  Once underway, Bob offered the suggestion of heading over to Cooper island on our way.  We took the dinghy from Cooper Island, to Salt Island and the wreck of the RMS Rhone for snorkeling - more places high on our to-do list "someday".  The eerie-factor at the Rhone was high, and it was spectacular snorkeling the wreck while divers took a closer look beneath us.  Salt Island was great for wandering around and exploring.  Towards the west end of the island lies a makeshift graveyard where islanders buried the dead that washed ashore from the Rhone's demise.  

The incredibly flat island of Anegada, due north of Virgin Gorda, was also on the itinerary we asked of Bob.
Sunset in Anegada
 The sail there and back was well worth it, and proved to be a very relaxing experience with the sails set and the autopilot steering our course.  We arrived far earlier than Sharon and I had imagined we would, which allowed for us to do a good amount of island exploration and visiting many of the local watering holes.  It was immediately apparent that we would want to return there in the future, so we moved around the island like a sampler platter of appetizers with the intent that we will know exactly what we want to see and do the next time our hull meanders into this beautiful anchorage.  And when you hear Jimmy Buffett talk about Anegada lobster - take his word for it...  Or ours.  This is something not to be missed.


Our week aboard with Bob and Debbie was a great way to end our crewed charter experiences.  It was horrendously depressing to see it come to an end, but with every end comes a new beginning.  This was such a great stepping stone towards our ultimate goal, allowing us to log more hours under a professional while still having a vacation of a lifetime.   

Motoring to pull up the anchor
"Crowded" Cow-wreck beach, Anegada

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Island Characters: Michael Beans


"Happy Arrrrrr" with Michael Beans aboard S/V Antiquity
in Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda
Michael Beans - aka. Michael Gardner...  A trip to the British Virgin Islands is really not complete without singing along with the modern day pirate that is Micheal "Beans".  Years ago while reading and researching the Virgin Islands I came across writings and videos of Michael Beans and his "Happy Arrrrrr" show.  An eclectic cross of a folk singer, a free spirit, a comedian, and sailor extraordinaire, "Beans" is definitely worth seeking out.

Born and raised in Michigan, Beans left stateside living for a life at sea in the tantalizing warmth of the Caribbean.  His stories of treasure hunting, and his life experiences in the islands are entertainment in themselves.  His life aboard his first boat "Esperanza" landed him in Marina Cay as a one-man band, playing for yachtsman.  The only tales taller than the pirate lore he sings of, are the tales of his "Happy Arrrr" show which has now grown and moved to Leverick Bay in Virgin Gorda's north sound.

While his show is a lot of fun, we were lucky enough to spend some time with him outside of his storied act.  In 2011 while chartering aboard S/V Antiquity, I had asked Capt. David Decuir about Beans.  As it would turn out, our charter was a bit early in the season and his act had not yet started.  To our surprise, upon returning to Antiquity after exploring the Baths, Capt. Decuir informed us that he had invited Beans to join us aboard for cocktails and snacks.

There we were, sitting in the cockpit of Antiquity, docked in the marina at Spanish Town.  We were enjoying "Tickity Punches" (David's own rum punch cocktail) and being regaled with stories of Beans' travels as the sun sank into the sea.  Before leaving, Beans invited us to visit him the following morning in his new home aboard his cement boat "Mangele" which at the time was in the boat yard on stands - or on the hard.

Beans' boat "Mangele" on the hard in Spanish Town
After breakfast aboard Antiquity, we decided to take Beans up on his offer.  The only thing bigger than Beans' personality would be his boat.  Mangele is a 47 foot feral cement boat, donned with dual masts and a black and yellow paint scheme which can only be described as a pirate ship.  Like Beans himself, Mangele looks as if the sea and it's stories have shaped and molded it over time.  As we approached, a head (toilet) came flying over the rail and smashed on the ground in front of us.  These are things you simply can't make up.  Beans was working diligently on a repair list for his boat when we arrived, and apparently a new toilet was the first task at hand.  After being invited aboard, we climbed up a shaky aluminum ladder to be greeted with a full tour of Mangele's venerable topsides and then down below.  After more stories and some treasure show-and-tell, we left Beans and Mangele as we headed back to Antiquity to set sail for Jost Van Dyke.

Spending time with Beans was definitely a highlight of our 2011 BVI vacation.  Check out his website at Beans Music.  Also, while on his website check out his foundation which helps Haiti.

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Island Characters: Seddy Callwood


White Bay, Jost Van Dyke

Sharon and I swimming in White Bay, Jost Van Dyke
while aboard  S/V Antiquity, 2011
Each year when we sail throughout the Virgin Islands, one of our favorite stops is the island of Jost Van Dyke.  Located just north of Tortola, Jost Van Dyke is the home to only about 300ish people.  When one imagines the absolute perfect beach bar, this is where that image comes to fruition.  We try to spend an entire day doing a pub-crawl across the island visiting all of our favorite watering holes.











Seddy Callwood's "One Love Bar"
On the western end of the beach in White Bay, "One Love Bar" will be found.  And if you are lucky, it's owner Seddy Callwood will be on hand.  On our first visit to One Love, we walked into the mostly empty sand floor establishment and ordered a couple Bushwackers.  By the way, if you have never had a Bushwacker - I highly recommend it.  As a friendly bartender made our drinks, we noticed that the only other customer at the time was slumped over the bar, seemingly inebriated.  Our drinks were just about ready when our fellow patron slowly sprang to life and began to mumble incoherently to Sharon.  His voice was barely audible, and heavily slurred.  We weren't quite sure he was even speaking English.  He became more animated, and seemingly agitated as he continued to attempt to communicate with Sharon.  It was awkward, and I felt tension rising.  I  put my drink down and moved closer thinking I needed to put space between Sharon and our local drunkard, while inserting myself between them.  This is usually how bad stories happen, so I was trying to be friendly while still positioning myself in case I needed to "thump" this guy.  He became even more animated and was now getting loud, speaking in a tongue which we could not distinguish.  Just when I thought the situation was headed south, he stood up straight, and spoke clear coherent English - we had just met Seddy and experienced his first prank of the day...

Seddy Callwood
Seddy, is son of the famous Foxy Callwood - owner of Foxy's Tamarind Bar and fellow island character.  I'll get to him in a later post...  Seddy is known to provide entertainment for visitors to his bar in the form of magic tricks and pranks.  His slight of hand, and his mystical-Rasta-meets-David-Copperfield demeanor add a whole new fun flavor to his spontaneous bar room act.  He performed quite a few tricks at the bar while we enjoyed a few rounds of drinks.  His bar, One Love, is an open air powder sand floor hut adorned in what seems like a million buoys.  Inside, like many island bars, the ceiling is covered with things past guests have left behind.  There are too many bikinis, t-shirts, flags and pennants to even count.  One Love seems to play second fiddle to the more famous Soggy Dollar bar just down the beach which I think is a bonus.  There are simply less people that venture here, leaving more of Seddy's tricks for the rest of us.  So when you visit White Bay, stop in and say hello to Seddy.  I've found one of his best tricks is making your sobriety disappear.

Not the greatest picture, but the only one I got of us with Seddy

Monday, July 22, 2013

Islands and ADKs

When my wife and I met, there was no way we would have ever known we would one day be contemplating a complete change in direction after well rooting ourselves with houses, careers, etc.  Some things happen simply by chance, while others are a product of one's surrounding environment.

Sharon and Rebel snowshoeing
The very first time I took my future wife to my hometown in the Adirondacks, we stepped out of my Dodge pickup into -22F temperatures and a windchill with a punch like Mike Tyson.  Friends soon arrived at my doorstep to take us out for a night on the "town".  We took her to some local watering holes of dubious distinction - "The Skunk's Nest", "The Wayside" - only the classiest joints for me...  The fact that she didn't want to leave by the next morning was a sign that she was a keeper.  The following day the excitement of showing her my beloved lake nearly got us in serious trouble.  In hyper anticipation of sharing my hometown, I soon found myself navigating my truck in the knee deep snow of un-plowed seasonal roads.  I had so anxiously headed out of the house that I had failed to properly prepare with boots, heavy coats and gloves - winter weather attire.  When my truck spun and ground itself down deeply into the snow I realized we were now sitting on the frame which was robbing precious traction, and we were far down a narrow one-way road.  We were still early on in our relationship so I worked hard to hide my initial panic.  After assuring her all was fine and "normal" I managed to execute a virtual 135-point turn, squeaking out enough traction here and there to get us out.  Awkward situation averted...  Soon thereafter it was summer again and we returned to the Adirondacks, and again to the lake.  The effect the area had on her was immediate and exactly what I had hoped for - she was smitten with the area I called 'home' just as much as I was.  I couldn't have hoped for more.

Crown Princess at the Bonaire pier
Years would pass and we found ourselves on our honeymoon.  Sharon was determined to show me a place that meant as much to her as my precious Adirondacks meant to me.  We booked a cruise with an eastern Caribbean itinerary.  I had seen the crystal blue waters of the Caribbean in pictures and on TV, always wondering if they were truly as turquoise as the pictures showed.  I also had an affinity for steel drums and reggae music, both of which I was hoping to experience while on this honeymoon cruise.  Words can not express the profound impact of seeing and experiencing these things in person for the first time.  Even though we were on a cruise and were viewing a very cleansed and diluted version, there was definitely something here.  As I was thrilled that Sharon had fallen in love with the Adirondacks, she was equally pleased that I was starting my own affair with the islands.

Aboard S/V Kuralu sailing back to Tortola
Over the next years we began to cruise every year.  We quickly found though, that we were not like the large majority of fellow cruise ship passengers.  While most were perfectly happy to quickly consume what the cruise line dished on a platter - we found that we were venturing further and further from the ship seeking adventure and a more "real" view of the islands we visited.  We booked our cruises a year in advance, chosen by itinerary.  We spent the year prior reading and researching, finding new places to explore.  More times than not, we went sailing and snorkeling away from the ship.  After each cruise it was a given that our favorite part of the entire vacation was away from the ship, usually on a sailboat.  This slow progression is how we were swayed away from cruise ships, and towards private sailing vacations.  While the cruise ships were a great way to explore a massive portion of the Caribbean islands in a short number of years, we were now narrowing our pursuit of adventure.  We wanted to go places on our own schedule, as we saw fit.  We wanted to go where cruise ships simply could not.  We wanted to reduce the passenger count from 3000 down to 2.

Fast forward almost 10 years.  It's time for a new life.  Our love of the Adirondack mountains, and of the Caribbean islands has not faded.  If anything, it has grown with us and matured from a lofty dream to a fledgling set of plans.  The parallels between the Adirondacks and the islands are uncanny.  The areas are rugged, as are the people.  Life in either place is hard.  Climates are challenging.  Weather can be brutal although opposite.  In the Adirondacks the winter can beat people and things into submission, while in the islands the heat and the dreaded hurricane season can weather even the heartiest of souls.  Populations are low.  Communities are tight-knit.  Tourism is the dollar king.  The list goes on and on.  I even dare to ask one to find a beach in the Caribbean without an Adirondack chair gracing its warm white sands.  And those local watering holes where I first took Sharon - "The Skunk's Nest", "The Wayside"?...  They are really nothing more than cold weather cousins of "Foxy's Tamarind Bar" and "Woody's Seafood Saloon".  As we embark on a journey towards a new life in the Caribbean, all we are really doing is adding heat to an Adirondack life we love.
Sharon at the Trunk Bay overlook, St. John USVI